If you have a soft spot for all things cute and small, you're in for a treat! In this blog post I will share a free pattern for my small amigurumi teddy bear with jointed arms and legs.
I made two versions - one with regular alpaca-acrylic yarn and one with fuzzy baby yarn. I love them both, but the soft texture of the fuzzy yarn does make it extra cute.
There's a free online version of the pattern below or you can get an ad-free printable PDF version with step-by-step photos on ETSY or KRISTITULLUS.COM.
About the Pattern
Size: 14 cm (5 1/2") from head to toe, when crocheted with DK weight alpaca-wool-acrylic blend and a 2.50 mm crochet hook. And 18 cm (7"), when crocheted with fuzzy baby yarn and a 2.75 mm crochet hook.
Difficulty: intermediate – includes some more complicated crochet techniques, small details and simple shaping.
You Will Need
- DK / light worsted / #3 / sport weight yarn. I used Alize 'Alpaca Royal', a DK weight alpaca-wool-acrylic blend, 250 m (273 yd) / 100 g (3.53 oz). You will need about 24 g of brown (558 mushroom) and 2 g of white yarn (01 cream).
- 2.50 - 3.00 mm crochet hook (US size 2/C - 3/D).
- Polyester fiberfill, wool, etc. for stuffing.
- 8 mm (1/3") safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt, etc.
- Dark brown cotton embroidery floss.
- Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
For the fuzzy version, you will need
- Alize ‘Softy’ - 28 g of brown (179 camel) and 2 g of white yarn (62 cream).
- 2.75 - 3.50 mm crochet hook (US size 2/C - 4/E).
- Polyester fiberfill, wool, etc. for stuffing.
- 8 mm (1/3") safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt, etc.
- Dark brown cotton embroidery floss.
- Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
Skills Required
- Magic ring
- Crocheting an oval around a base chain
- Crocheting in spiral
- Slip stitch
- Single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia)
- Increasing
- Decreasing
- Finishing an open piece
- Joining two open pieces
- Sewing an open piece to a closed piece
- Sewing a flat piece to a closed piece
Abbreviations
- mr, sc n = magic ring - start with an adjustable loop and crochet n (number) single crochet stitches into the loop.
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
- sc (or sl st, ch etc.) n = crochet one sc (or sl st, ch etc.) in each of the next n stitches.
- inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
- dbl-inc = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
- dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method.
- dec (or inc, dbl-inc etc.) x n = crochet n decreases (or inc, dbl-inc etc.) in a row.
- (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
- (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
Notes
- Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the marker up after completing each round.
- All stitches are worked into both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
Printable PDF Pattern
You can download an ad-free printable PDF version with step-by-step photos.
Head
With brown yarn:
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: inc x 6 (12)
3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)
5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)
6: (sc 6, inc, sc 7, inc) x 2 (34)
7: sc in each st (34)
8: sc 3, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 4 (38)
9-10: sc in each st (38)
11: (sc 8, inc, sc 9, inc) x 2 (42)
On round 12, place a stitch marker between stitches 20 and 21 (around the loops of the 21st stitch) to mark the center of the face. Use it as a guide when placing the eyes.
12-14: sc in each st (42)
Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rounds 12 and 13, leaving 8 stitches (count 7 holes) between them.
15: (sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)
16: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 (30)
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
17: (sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)
18: (dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)
19: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the head.
Muzzle
With white yarn:
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: (dbl-inc x 2, sc) x 2 (14)
3: sc in each st (14)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the muzzle firmly.
Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch, placing it just below round 11.
Use yarn to indent the eyes a little.
Embroider the nose with cotton embroidery floss.
Ears
With brown yarn:
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: (inc x 2, sc) x 2 (10)
3: sc in each st (10)
4: sc 5, leave the rest of the stitches unworked (10)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Flatten the ears. Sew the ears to the head, placing them just below round 5.
Right Arm
With brown yarn:
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: (inc x 2, sc) x 2 (10)
3-4: sc in each st (10)
5: sc, dec x 2, sc 2, inc, sc 2 (9)
6: sc, dec, sc 3, inc, sc 2 (9)
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
7: sc, dec, sc 6 (8)
8: sc in each st (8)
9: sc, dec, sc 5 (7)
10-14: sc in each st (7)
Attach a button or joint inside the arm between rounds 13 and 14, placing it so the yarn tails or post of the joint is facing straight towards the body.
Finish stuffing.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening.
Left Arm
With brown yarn:
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: (inc x 2, sc) x 2 (10)
3-4: sc in each st (10)
5: sc 2, inc, sc 2, dec x 2, sc (9)
6: sc 2, inc, sc 3, dec, sc (9)
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
7: sc 7, dec (8)
Sc in next three stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.
8: sc in each st (8)
9: sc 4, dec, sc 2 (7)
10-14: sc in each st (7)
Attach a button or joint inside the arm between rounds 13 and 14, placing it so the yarn tails or post of the joint is facing straight towards the body.
Finish stuffing.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening.
Legs
With brown yarn:
1: ch 5, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc 2, 4 sc in first ch
Rotate and work on other side of beginning chain.
sc 2, 2 sc in last ch (12)
Continue working in spiral.
2: inc, sc 3, dbl-inc, sc 2, dbl-inc, sc 3, inc (18)
Work round 3 into back loops only.
3-4: sc in each st (18)
5: sc 5, dec x 2, sc, dec x 2, sc 4 (14)
6: sc 5, dec x 3, sc 3 (11)
7: sc 4, dec x 2, sc 3 (9)
Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.
8-12: sc in each st (9)
On the left leg only, sc in next 5 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.
13: (sc, dec) x 2, sc 2, leave the last stitch unworked (7)
Attach a button or joint inside the leg between rounds 12 and 13, placing it so the yarn tails or post of the joint is facing straight towards the body.
Finish stuffing.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening.
Body
With brown yarn:
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: inc x 6 (12)
3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)
5: (sc 5, inc) x 4 (28)
6-9: sc in each st (28)
Turn the body so the first stitch of round 9 is facing away from you (center of the back). Attach the legs to the sides of the body, between rounds 6 and 7.
10: sc 6, (dec, sc 3) x 3, dec, sc 5 (24)
11: sc in each st (24)
12: (dec, sc 6) x 3 (21)
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
13: sc in each st (21)
14: sc 3, dec, (sc 5, dec) x 2, sc 2 (18)
15: sc in each st (18)
16: (dec, sc 4) x 3 (15)
17: sc in each st (15)
18: sc 2, dec, (sc 3, dec) x 2, sc (12)
Attach arms to the sides of the body, between rounds 15 and 16.
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Finish stuffing the body.
If you have any questions, do not hesitate to email me or leave a comment below, I am always happy to help.
Copyright © 2016 Kristi Tullus, TÜ Spire. All rights reserved.
You may not sell, copy, reproduce, alter, publish, or distribute this pattern, or parts of this pattern in any way. You are welcome to sell finished items made with any of my patterns.
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