FREE PATTERN: Small Long-Legged Teddy Bear

I have already made little bunnies and a cat using the same basic body pattern, but I think it works great as a teddy bear as well.

This is a great pattern to give a  try if you are new to toy making - it's not difficult to crochet and doesn't take too long, but does include a few different techniques, so you can learn all the basics of amigurumi making.

Size

About 15 cm (6") tall, when crocheted with DK weight cotton and linen blend (50g = 112) and a 2,50 mm crochet hook (US size 2/C).

 

Difficulty

2. Beginner - suitable for novice crocheters, includes small details.

 

Skills required



You will need

  • Yarn. I used Katia 'Linen', a DK weight cotton and linen blend, 50g = 112m (50g = 123yd) / 8 ply / 11 wpi. You will need about 12 g of beige and just a few grams of white yarn.
  • 2,50 - 3,00 mm crochet hook (US hook size 2/C - 4/E) or according to the yarn. 
  • Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc. for stuffing.
  • Cotton embroidery floss. 
  • 8 mm safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
  • Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.

 

Abbreviations

  • mr, sc n = magic ring – crochet n single crochet stitches into the adjustable loop.
  • sl st = slip stitch.
  • sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia). 
  • sc n = crochet one sc in each of the next n stitches.
  • inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
  • dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method
  • (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times. 
  • [36] = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.

 

Notes

  • Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
  • Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the marker up after completing each round.
  • All stitches are worked into both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.

 

Head

Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12] 
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 = [18] 
Round 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 = [24] 
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 = [30]
Round 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 = [36]
Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 = [42]
Rounds 8-14: sc in each stitch = [42]
Round 15: (sc 5, dec) x 6 = [36]

Attach the safety toy eyes between rounds 12 and 13, leaving 7 stitches (count 6 holes) between them.

Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.

Round 16: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 = [30]
Round 17: (sc 3, dec) x 6 = [24]
Round 18: (dec, sc 2) x 6 = [18]
Round 19: (sc, dec) x 6 = [12]

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the head.

 

Muzzle

Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 = [14] 
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch = [14]

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch.

Tip! It is difficult to stuff a large open piece. Start pinning the muzzle to the head and add stuffing as you go.

Embroider the nose.

Ears

Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12] 
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch = [12]

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten the ears and sew them to the head, placing them just below round 3.

Tip! Sew the muzzle and ears to the head and embroider the nose before you sew the head to the body - this way you can fasten all yarn tails securely with a knot under the head.

Body

Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12] 
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 = [18] 
Round 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 = [24] 
Rounds 5-8: sc in each stitch = [24]
Round 9: (dec, sc 10) x 2 = [22]
Round 10: (sc 3, dec) x 4, sc 2 = [18]
Round 11: sc in each stitch = [18]
Round 12: (dec, sc 7) x 2 = [16]
Round 13: (sc 2, dec) x 4 = [12]

Fasten off and hide the yarn tail. Stuff the body firmly. Sew the head to the body using mattress or whip stitch. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.

Arms (make 2)

Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: (inc, sc) x 3 = [9] 
Rounds 3-5: sc in each stitch = [9]
Round 6: sc 3, dec, sc 4 = [8]

Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms lightly about 2/3 way up.

Rounds 7-8: sc in each stitch = [8]
Round 9: sc 3, dec, sc 3 = [7]
Rounds 10-11: sc in each stitch = [7]
Round 12: sc 3, dec, sc 2 = [6]
Round 13: sc in each stitch = [6]
Round 14: sc 3, flatten the top and crochet over the opening.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Sew the arms to the sides of the body, one row below the head.

Legs (make 2)

Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12]
Round 3: sc in each stitch = [12]
Round 4: sc 4, dec, sc 6 = [11]
Round 5: sc in each stitch = [11]
Round 6: sc 4, dec, sc 5 = [10]

Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the legs lightly.

Rounds 7-8: sc in each stitch = [10]
Round 9: sc 4, dec, sc 4 = [9]
Rounds 10-11: sc in each stitch = [9]
Round 12: sc 4, dec, sc 3 = [8]
Rounds 13-16: sc in each stitch = [8]

Left leg

Round 17: sc 3, flatten the top and crochet over the opening.

Right leg

Round 17: sc 5, flatten the top and crochet over the opening.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Sew the legs to the body just above round 3 and more towards the front of the body, leaving 4 - 5 stitches (count 3 - 4 holes) between them.

 Finish sewing and hide all yarn tails. And done!

 

If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact me or leave a comment below, I am always happy to help.

I would love to see how your teddy bears turn out, so do post a photo to my Facebook page or tag me in your social media posts, I'm @kristitullus on Instagram and Facebook.

Copyright 2019 TÜ Spire. All rights reserved.

Please do not post this pattern to your website or blog, instead post a link to https://kristitullus.com/blogs/blog/free-pattern-small-long-legged-teddy-bear. You MAY use this pattern as a teaching aid in any free class or e-course, or as part of a free crochet pattern, provided you credit me as the designer (Kristi Tullus, http://kristitullus.com).

Feel free to sell items made with this pattern.



* Some links may be affiliate links which will allow me to make a small commission on any products purchased using one of these links with no extra cost for you. This does not influence my opinion or recommendations in any way. Thanks for your support.

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10 comments

Thank you for sharing! It’s a bright spot in crafters day 😊

Sally Caldwell

Thank-you again, I have made more than 2 dozen of these to give away, in 24 colours. I fnd it easier to sew the muzzle on 3/4 around and embroider then, so it stays lined up, then stuff and finish sewing on twice. The LST (leave sewing tail), left on the head gets in my way, so I put it on the body instead. I add ears while head is half done and muzzle before stuffing head, arms and legs to body before stuffing, then sew to head. I mark c.f. sides and c.b. on head and body before finishing the crochet, with waste yarn, and leave in until toy is completed. Much easier to line up. All the best.

Kathy Horne

Amigurumi patterns are great. Continue nice sharing. By your permission; amigurumimodelleri.com

Amigurumi Modelleri

MAG IKHET OP FACEBOOK PLAATEN AUB MET JE NAAM BIJ ALS ONTWERPSTER VEEL VRIENDE DIE HAKEN?

lIEVE VAN CUTSEM

lieve van cutsem

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lieve

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